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Top 10 Reasons Why I Love Panama

4/21/2013

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There are a lot of reasons I love panama. There are big reasons and little reasons. This is my Top 10 list. More reasons will follow, but this is a big picture look at why I love this country.

1.       Abundant Natural Beauty. Panama is a small, skinny country with varied microclimates. Panama City and the expat Coronado beach community have great views of the Pacific Ocean, and where I live in Playa Bonita (just outside Panama City) has a breathtaking view of the ships entering the Panama Canal. The less inhabited side of Panama is bordered by the Caribbean Sea. Places such as Bocas del Toro give stunning views of crystal clear azure water. For those who like a cooler climate, Boquete is nestled in a tropical jungle. The stunning vistas and abundant greenery calm your senses, while the year-round 70-degree weather feels like paradise.

2.       The Weather. I love the weather in Panama. There are diverse microclimates that will appeal to just about everyone. The weather is very consistent, peaking at mid-day and cooling about 10 degrees each night. It ranges from very warm in Panama City and the Coronado Beach area (80-90 degrees) to spring-like temperatures in Boquete and Altos del Maria (65-75 degrees). It gets hot when the sun is shining at full strength but most days there is a cloud cover for at least part of the day. It also can get humid, but the humidity is not as bad as Houston, Texas, nor does it last for days on end. Having moved from Dallas, Texas, my skin loves the humidity. I don’t have to run for lotion 17 times per day, and plumper skin means a more youthful appearance. Plus, I only have to worry about one wardrobe of wash & wear clothes. No more dry cleaning for me!

3.       Restaurants. Chile was the first Latin American country I visited, and I was very disappointed in the food there. Having low expectations when I arrived in Panama, I was blown away by the quality and diversity of the restaurants. There are Italian restaurants that rival the cuisine in Italy and sushi restaurants that could be located in Hong Kong. There are expensive white tablecloth restaurants where you can drop a few hundred dollars on dinner and local fondas where a meal for two could set you back all of five bucks. You can get Peruvian, Colombian, Thai, French, Spanish, and American without even trying hard.

4.       Fresh Produce. For those of you who prefer to cook at home, fresh fruit and vegetables are also diverse and abundant, such as the sweetest pineapple you have ever tasted, whole coconuts, mangoes, papayas, bananas, and other exotic fruit you have never heard of. The vegetables are just as great—tomatoes that taste like tomatoes, avacadoes that are twice as big as Haas, and eggplant that is much more flavorful than the big fat eggplant you buy in the US. Although not produce, gourmet items are also available and often inexpensive. For example, you can get a large bunch of flaky Ceylon cinnamon sticks at the produce market in Panama City for about $7 (a $40 savings over US prices) and Jasmine rice for seventy-one cents per pound.

5.       Fresh Fish. Fish markets offer just-caught fish in every area of Panama, and local produce stands are easy to find. If you’ve never had just-caught, never-frozen fish, you are in for a treat. It is buttery and tender and more delicious than you can imagine. Corvina is the national white fish, but you can also get almost anything you would normally get in a fish market, including langostinos, octopus, and red snapper.

6.       The Panamanians. Panamanians are very friendly and most love Westerners. They go out of their way to be helpful and always apologize if their English is bad. I think this is funny as I should be the one apologizing. After all, I’m in their country and should speak Spanish. I came here knowing 10 words and now I’m up to a hundred. I can get by but I still rely on pantomiming or Google Translate on my iPhone. If I am swatting at mosquitoes outside, a stranger will offer me his bug spray. When I rented an apartment on Balboa for three months, my landlord felt protective of me because I was a single woman and went out of their way to make me feel like family.

7.       Chivalry. Latin men understand chivalry. In fact, it’s in their DNA. They open doors, they lift heavy objects, and they allow you to cut in front of them in line. One of my favorite stories is the day I was driving in very bad traffic in the city. I was trying to cut in front of a work truck because my lane was ending but the driver wouldn’t give an inch. You can’t see through most windows here, as they are all tinted very dark, so I rolled down my window and waved. The driver rolled down and his window, and when I said, “Por Favor…” (the only part of Please Let Me Cut In that I knew), he waved his hand and graciously let me in. A Panamanian man can fight another man for an inch of road space, but they can’t fight a woman.

8.       Driving. I love the Latin style of driving. It’s politely aggressive, but it gets the job done. Stop signs that don’t make sense are ignored, while those that are imperative are obeyed. I also love that horns are a communication device, much like the bark of a dog. A honked horn doesn’t necessary mean “Get Out of my way, you jerk!” It can mean, “Do you see me?” or “Sure, cut in front of me” or “I’m passing you so stay where you are.” The way the horn is honked gives the indication of what is being communicated.

9.       Sunrise and Sunset. Panama is on the equator so sunrise and sunset are consistent throughout the year. We get 12 hours of sun. The sun rises at 6:30 a.m. and sets at 6:30 p.m. I like knowing exactly what time it is when the sun rises. I also like not having to screw up my internal body clock twice a year with Daylight Savings Time. Aside from the consistency of the time, I also like the beauty of each sunrise and sunset. I typically wake up before sunrise and drink coffee on my balcony while I watch the sunrise over the water. It’s one of the most perfect moments of each day.

10.   Latin Man Sex Look. I came to Panama as a single woman, but I think married women will appreciate this as well. Latin men show their appreciation by giving what I call the Latin Man Sex Look. This is a prolonged stare, often accompanied by an open mouth and twinkling eyes. This is much different than the Construction Worker Wolf Whistle that we’re accustomed to. I find that offensive, but I find the Latin Man Sex Look downright charming. Being a white woman, I get this look dozens of times each day. Ladies, let me be frank…it’s hard not to feel like a supermodel when you get the Latin Man Sex Look even when you’re looking decidedly unsexy. I was talking to a New Yorker in the elevator of my apartment, and he said to me, “I’ve seen you before. But you look a lot less glamorous when you walk your dogs in the morning.” Really!?! Did he need to say that? I know I don’t look ultra fab when I’ve just rolled out of bed, but the Panamanians still give me the Latin Man Sex Look, for which I am eternally grateful.  


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What to See on a Trip to Panama

4/15/2013

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PictureView of Casa Bonita at Playa Bonita Village
I have friends from all over the globe who want to know what to see and do in Panama. I’ve put together a sample itinerary to help you get a feel for what you can experience here.

Day One – Fly to Panama
Flights from the US typically get in late, so consider this a travel day. When you get to the airport, customs is a breeze and taxis are plentiful. Just tell the driver where you want to go. Ask the taxi driver before you get into the taxi what it costs. There is a standard rate, but sometimes they try to supplement their income by inflating the price for Gringos. If you're going to a hotel on Balboa, plan on paying $25 + tolls ($30 total including tip).

Stay at the Le Meridian Hotel on Avenida Balboa & Calle Uruguay. I can get you a special rate of $165 per night for a deluxe room. If you want a late dinner, just step outside of the hotel and find one of dozens of restaurants on or near Calle Uruguay. One of my favorites is Gusto’s. It’s two blocks from the hotel and has handmade pastas and the best grilled corvina in the city. Just ask the concierge how to get there.

Day Two – Panama City
Wake up early and walk across Avenida Balboa to the Cinta Costera. Take a stroll down the Cinta Costera on the Bay of Panama, do pull-ups in the strength training area (or watch someone else doing them), and then enjoy a ceviche at the Fish Market. (Ceviches cost $2-$4, so bring cash.) Keep walking or take a very short cab ride to Casco Viejo. Tour the old historic town and browse the artisan stalls in the main square. Have lunch at one of the many area restaurants. Take a $3 cab ride back to the Le Meridian and do what the locals do… take a siesta. Have dinner at one of the many fabulous restaurants near Avenida Balboa.

Day Three – The Panama Canal
Have the concierge make lunch reservations for you at the Miraflores Restaurant. Take a cab to Miraflores mid-morning and take a tour of the Panama Canal. You can watch a brief movie and then see the locks in action while a guide explains what is happening in English over a microphone. After seeing the locks, eat in the buffet restaurant and watch the ships continue to move through the canal. I’ll be honest, the locks are a “tourista trappa” but it’s something you need to do at least once. After all, the Panama Canal is what helped shaped Panama into the country it is today.

After lunch, go back to your hotel for an afternoon siesta, or walk down Avenida Balboa to the MetroCenter Mall. Browse 4 levels of shops and stop at one of the kiosks for an empanada and café. A casino is attached to the mall, so bring some extra dollars to try your luck. When you’re done gambling, go across the Sky Bridge on Level 2 of the mall and enter the Hard Rock Hotel at the bar level. Order a lychee martini (fruity but not sweet) and a lobster roll sandwich. It can be shared as a pre-dinner appetizer or eaten alone as a meal. The pizzas are also outstanding.

Go back to your hotel to freshen for dinner. Panama City is glamorous, so feel free to bring your glitzy garb. Men, you won't get kicked out of a restaurant for wearing shorts, but you may feel under-dressed. Bring at least one pair of long slacks for dinner. Almost all of the restaurants are well air conditioned and many give the option of sitting inside or outdoors. Some recommendations for dinner at nearby restaurants are:

  • Luna: A higher-priced Peruvian restaurant with great seafood and the most amazing bread pudding outside of New Orleans. Portions are small so don’t plan to share anything but an appetizer.
  • Petit Paris: This is a local’s French café that has slow service but really great food. I love the seared tuna, but it isn’t always available. The Chicken Florentine is another favorite. The food is abundant and rich, so feel free to get a few items to share.
  • The Market: This restaurant is within walking distance of the Le Meridian. It’s not a fancy restaurant, but it has the best locally grown beef in the area if you want steak or an upscale burger.

Day Four –Coronado
An hour from Panama City, Coronado is the main beach area on the Pacific Coast side of Panama. There are many small towns that make up the beach region, but Coronado is the hub. It has two grocery stores, a dozen or so great restaurants, a Machetazu (like a Target that sells both home items and groceries), and just about everything else you need to live comfortably, from paint stores to nail salons to an upscale wine store. Spend the day at the beach, looking at property (aren’t you at least curious?) and eating your way through the fabulous restaurants. Stay at a rental condo on the beach for the best experience, but you can also stay at a larger resort hotel further down the coast.

Day Five – Coronado & El Valle
Start the day with a walk on the beach. The Coronado beaches are a swirl of black volcanic sand and traditional colored sand. One of the reasons I moved to Panama is because my body doesn’t hurt here. All of the broken bones and pulled tendons that caused daily pain in Dallas are gone. I am not sure if it’s the magnetic properties in the volcanic sand, the negative ions from living on the beach, or just the warmth and humidity. But I recommend a long walk on the beach. Let the black sand squish between your toes and see how good you feel.

El Valle is an inactive volcano, and an entire town was build INSIDE the volcano. At the base of El Valle, there is a local’s market that sells plants, produce, and native goods. This is a great place to get fresh produce and souvenirs for all your friends back home. Inside El Valle, you can go hiking to a waterfall or go or go zip lining through the canopy.

There are many great restaurants in El Valle but here are my top three.

  • Casa de Lourdes – This Italian restaurantlooks like an Italian villa. It's stunningly beautiful with food that's just as lovely.
  • Taverna Firenze – This is an exceptional Italian restaurant on the way to El Valle… or on the way back.
  • Restaurante Rincon Vallero – It’s a little hard to find, but it’s worth the search. The stream that runs through the restaurant is filled with fish and turtles, and the food is superb. You'll wonder why every lunch isn't paired with a bottle of wine and lasts three hours. http://www.hotelrinconvallero.com/

Day Six, Seven and Beyond – Relax by the Pool at the Westin Playa Bonita
Every vacation should end with some hardcore relaxation. Just outside of Panama City is the best resort in Panama. Plan on de-stressing at one of the many pools at Playa Bonita Resort. http://www.westinplayabonita.com/. You can eat at one of 6 restaurants, drink at one of 4 bars, walk the beach, get some sun, workout in the gym, get a massage in the Clarins spa, and generally let the beautiful surroundings wash away your fatigue. P

While you’re here, come see me at Casa Bonita, the new condo building nestled inside of the resort. I live here full-time and am in love with permanent resort living. www.playabonitaresidences.com. 

When you make your reservations at the Westin, don’t make them online. IPRE has special pricing through a super-secret contact. Email me at melissa@ipreinfo.com and I’ll give you the scoop.

You can extend your stay by 4-6 days and visit the mountain region of Boquete. It’s a short flight or an all-day drive from Panama City. Boquete is one of the most temperate regions, with year-round spring weather in the 70 degree range. You can also spend more time in Coronado. This itinerary just gives you a place to start.

Email me and I’d be happy to help you personalize this itinerary to fit your schedule and your budget. 

Until then, cheers to living the good life!


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Renting Versus Buying in Panama

4/3/2013

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I visited Panama twice before I moved here on a trial basis. Many people gave me the advice to rent for a while before buying in Panama. It was a big move for me—and I was doing it alone—so I followed what I thought would be the easiest path. I brought a few suitcases of clothes and my two dogs so I could dip my toes in the Panama water. Once in Panama, I spent three weeks in the Coronado beach area and three months in Panama City before I moved into a place of my own. 

If I had to do it over again, I would have skipped the rental period and moved directly into my condo. Here’s why.

  • Panama is the place to relax.  It doesn't matter whether you are renting your home out or selling it, moving takes work. By the time you arrive in Panama, every fiber in your body is saying, “It’s time to relax!” I thought once I got on the plane that my life would be full of umbrella drinks and afternoon siestas in a hammock. Four months later, I am finally living the life I dreamed of, but being unsettled for four months left me hammock-less and much more stressed than I should have been. The problem is that moving three times in four months is exhausting. Instead of feeling like I had started a new chapter in my life, I felt like I was in limbo with an extremely long moving period. 

  • You’re old enough to know what you want. Unless you’re an early twenty-something, you know what appeals to you. Are you a beach person or a mountain person? Do you like the bustling city life, the quiet beach life, or the remote mountain life? What do you have to have to be happy? Knowing me as well as I do, I knew that I wanted a place where I could feel pampered with a view of the ocean. I wanted to be surrounded by natural beauty and a peaceful setting with easy access to the city so I could get my fix of culture whenever the urge hit. For me, there was only one property in the entire country that fit my requirements. I live in a community called Playa Bonita (www.playabonitaresidences.com). It’s the only beach community within an easy drive to the city. Depending on traffic, it takes 12-25 minutes to get into the heart of Panama City from my parking garage. That’s a quicker and easier commute than when I lived in a suburb of Dallas and wanted to go into uptown Dallas for dinner.

  • Rental properties never feel like home. In the Panama City area, it’s prohibited to rent properties for less than 45 days. The reality, though, is that it’s almost impossible to find a rental property available for less than six months. When I was ready to leave my first short-term rental in the Coronado beach area, I spent two days on the phone (with my non-existent Spanish), and I found exactly one property that would do a less-than-six-month lease. Since I had no options, I took it. I loved the location, but the apartment made me sad. It had baby blue walls, no hot water in the kitchen, and blackout curtains that didn't quite close. Because I was a short-term renter, my landlord wasn't willing to spend the money to fix any of the problems. And like I mentioned before, I had no options. By the time I moved into my very own condo, I was thrilled to have white walls and hot running water in every room. When I went to the Do-It Center to buy paint, I was even more thrilled to be able to pick out paint colors that appealed to me. (And I promise you, it wasn't baby blue!)

I can help you whether you want to rent or purchase, but if you want my advice, skip the rental period and the extra headaches and just find something you love that you can call yours. That way, the moment you get to Panama you’ll feel like you've started a new chapter in your life. Just make sure to put a hammock on your must-buy list as soon as you arrive.


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    Melissa Darnay is a marketer, a serial entrepreneur, and a relocation concierge in Panama. Learn more... 

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