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Going to Church in Panama

12/15/2013

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If you're thinking about moving to Panama, finding a church you like might be part of the equation. One thing I still forget is that when I go to public events, the language spoken is usually Spanish.

I'm about to celebrate my third Christmas in Panama, and I've only just started taking Spanish lessons. If you read between the lines, this means I don't speak Spanish. I went to an awards dinner last week and it literally slipped my mind that it would be in Spanish. I was shocked when the mistress of ceremonies spoke in Spanish. Laughable I know. How can I forget that I live in Panama where the national language is Spanish? Because almost everyone I deal with on a professional level speaks English. 

The first church I attended was in Spanish. Oops. Forgot to add a language preference to my Google search. Although you don't need to speak the language to enjoy a church service, it does help to know what the pastor is talking about. That's when the apple fell from the tree and I realized my version of gravity...I needed to find an English-speaking church. The first one I tried was too small, but the second one was a good fit. It meets in a movie theater, which means comfy chairs and full-blast air conditioning. Plus, the pastor is someone I enjoy listening to. In fact, I probably would have chosen this church even if I'd still been deep in the bible belt with churches on every corner.

International churches are common in Panama. They have multiplied at the same rate as the English-speaking expats. My church is full of Americans, Canadians, Europeans, Aussies, and Latin Americans who are married to Americans, as well as the stray Panamanian who speak fluent English and just wants to go to an English-speaking church. Aside from the international mix, the median age at my church is about 35 and very few young children. (Try finding THAT in the bible belt!) 

In every expat community in Panama, there are many choices of English-speaking Catholic and Christian churches to attend. The fun part is that you get to meet people from all over the world. And of course no Spanish is necessary. 

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Mother's Day in Panama

12/9/2013

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Celebrating mothers is universal. Some cultures make mothers into goddesses, but most Western cultures just give mothers a special day. Businesses such as florists, chocolatiers, greeting card companies, and restaurants capitalize on Mother's Day by offering one-day-a-year specials. Although they're not less expensive, they come with extra love and attention to show mom you care.

Since Mother's Day is on a Sunday, restaurants offer a special Mother's Day brunch to satisfy the large influx of patrons who want to celebrate with their mothers. This special brunch is probably more expensive than a normal Sunday lunch, but no one will complain because it comes with a complimentary rose or a glass of champagne or perhaps even a small box of chocolates to take home. As we know, getting a reservation at a nice restaurant will make mom feel special, so we happily pay the extra surcharge and fight the crowds.

Mother's Day in Panama is different than Mother's Day in North American in two important ways. First, Mother's Day is celebrated in Panama in December rather than in May. Second, although Mother's Day is technically celebrated on the second Sunday in December, they up the celebration factor by adding on a national holiday. 

Moms don't just get a special lunch on Sunday, they also get a day off of work the next day. Well, technically, everyone gets it because a national holiday means all businesses but retail and service industries are closed. Hmm, Panamanians must love their mothers more than North Americans do because they spend two days celebrating Mothers Day. Plus, like most important national holidays, Panamanians go the extra mile by shooting off spectacular fireworks displays to honor mom. 

If my mother is reading this, I'm sure she'll feel less special now. Brunch and roses can't compete with a national holiday and an hour of fireworks. Perhaps she'll move to Panama where she'll feel more appreciated. Or knowing my mom, she'll want to celebrate American Mother's in May and then swoop down to Panama in time to celebrate Panamanian Mother's Day in December. Then she'll have three special days each year. Now if only she could figure out a way to celebrate her birthday twice each year without getting any older!


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A Day Trip to the Caribbean Coast

12/8/2013

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Living in Panama City means that everything is at your fingertips. Or at least within a day trip. Want to see a volcano? No problem, El Valle is less than two hours away. Want to go zip lining? It's a mere 30 minutes to the nearest rain forest canopy. Want to see the Caribbean when you live on the Pacific Ocean? It's closer than you think. 

How close? Ninety minutes coast-to-coast. That's the beauty of a long skinny country on the equator. You've got multiple oceans at your disposal.

Although we live just a few feet from the Pacific Ocean, we wanted to celebrate a friend's birthday by taking him to the Caribbean. We piled into the car with a small cooler of snacks and drove off for our adventure. Before we had opened our first soda pop, we'd reached the Caribbean Coast town of Colon. Our ultimate destination was another hour along the Coast, though, on the tiny island of Isla Grande. 

From Panama City, we drove to Colon, and then followed the coastal route past Portobelo, where we took a small boat across the water to Isla Grande. 

The Pacific Ocean side of Panama has a 20-foot tide, which means low tide is hundreds of feet out from the high-tide water line. The Caribbean side, though, has a mere 18-inch tide. The water laps the beach at about the same spot all day--and all year--long. This low tidal change means that restaurants can put their chairs right against the water.

We spent four hours dipping our toes in the turquoise Caribbean waters as we noshed on tomato salad, grilled fish, and frozen coconut leche-on-a-stick. 

Then after a lazy afternoon, we drove home. Although it was a long day, we could do a round trip coast-to-coast with a long leisurely lunch in between. Now that's something to shout about.

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7 Fun Things to Do in Panama That You Probably Can't Do at Home

12/7/2013

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PictureTrent Bayliss Surfing at El Palmar Beach
Your idea of the perfect life in Panama may be to recline in a hammock all day and catch up on a lifetime of reading. If so, the weather here is conducive to doing just that. If you want a more active lifestyle, you can get that too. 

You can do fun activities such as playing golf, mountain biking, roller blading, playing volleyball, gardening, and swimming all year long. But you may be able to do some of these at home... at least part of the year. What makes Panama so unique is the list of adventure activities you can do all year long, no matter what part of the country you live in. If you live in the city, the nearest jungle canopy is just 30 minutes away and the nearest public beaches are just an hour. To give you an idea of how close everything is, from the center mountain ranges in Panama, you can typically see both the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans. This proximity of beach and mountains makes active sports attainable every day of the year.

Here is a list of the top 7 adventure activities you can do when visiting or living in Panama that you probably can't do at home.

  1. Zip Lining. I’ve been zip lining twice and will probably never go again. That being said, if you’re in reasonably good shape, it’s something you’ll want to do at least once. You’ll need to be able to hike up a hill, as the zip lines use gravity to carry you from the top of a hill to a lower point. 
  2. Hiking to a Waterfall. There is something very relaxing about hiking in the jungle canopy and ending the journey at a waterfall. Not only do you get to see the immense beauty of the waterfall, but you can also take an invigorating swim in the freshwater pool below it. I love to hike in the drizzling rain. Although a bit slippery at times, it’s a true nature moment.
  3. Farmers Markets. You may have a Farmer's Market where you live, but you've probably never experienced such year-round freshness and abundance. Each area has its own local market. Panama City has the immense Wholesale Food Market that is worth visiting, but there are also markets in other areas. Most notably El Valle (the mountain area 30 minutes from Coronado) and Boquete have very interesting Farmers Markets where you can get handmade crafts, local produce, homemade food items, handmade soaps, and locally grown coffee. 
  4. Coffee Tasting & Tours. I love good coffee and grind fresh beans every morning. I think Italy has amazing coffee because even the smallest restaurants have a $7,000 espresso maker. In Panama, the best coffee comes from Boquete, and once you get used to the rich flavor, you’ll never put anything else in your coffee pot. Just like there are thousands of varieties of grapes that make different kinds of wine, there are many different types of coffee beans. If you’re looking for an exotic treat, try the exotic coffee beans grown in Boquete called Geisha. (Of course the most exotic beans are the Geisha beans!) The Geisha beans have won awards all over the world and will set you back up to $170 a pound. If you want to try-before-you-buy, you can get a $20 cup of Geisha coffee while you’re in Boquete. Yes, it’s more expensive than Starbucks but you’re getting something really rare. You can also tour a coffee plantation, see how the beans are grown, and roast your own beans. The best coffee tour is the Boquete Coffee Tour at Finca Dos Jefes.
  5. Snorkeling. Panama has 1547 miles of coastline. Get out your sunscreen and your swimsuit because you could be in the water every single day. The Pacific Ocean side of Panama is cloudier than the Caribbean side, but there are still many things to see underwater. But take a day-trip to Caribbean side of Panama, and a whole new world of color and texture are waiting for you below the water's surface. 
  6. Surfing. There are several notable surfing beaches in Panama. Want to get ripped abs? Try hanging out on a surfboard for an hour a day. Even if you only doggy paddle, surfing is good for the soul. There's something about the combination of salt water and sun that invigorates your soul and makes you feel healthier. 
  7. River Rafting. Not only can you go river rafting in Panama, but you can combine zip lining with river rafting and do them both in the same day. On my first trip to Panama, we went zip lining in the morning, ate lunch at a local fish restaurant on the river, and then spent the afternoon river rafting. We were done in time to have dinner in the city. Try doing that at home!
  8. Whale Watching. July through October is Humpback Whale season in Panama, when the Humpback whales migrate through our waters. You can take a whale watching excursion and are almost guaranteed to see humpback whales. Plus, you can swim with the dolphins and enjoy a fun day on the water.
  9. Island Hopping. Panama has over 80 islands on its dual coasts. You can reach the various islands by ferry, private boat, or small plane. Each island has its own unique flavor. Some of the islands are only inhabited by natives. Been to Contadora on the Pacific side? It's time to check out the Pearl Islands on the Caribbean. Visiting all of the islands will keep you busy for months, if not years.




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Top 10 List of What's Cheap in Panama

12/5/2013

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One of the reasons to move to Panama is that it costs less to live. Here are my top 10 picks for cheap things in Panama that help save on your monthly living expenses.

  1. Fresh Fish. You can get a full range of seafood in Panama--from salmon to octopus--but the local fish is what's the best bargain.It's cheapest if you buy directly from the fishermen, but even if you go to a fish market, you'll still be amazed at how much you save. A whole Corvina (local sea bass) can be as little as $1 per medium-sized fish, and sushi grade Ahi tuna is only $2.50 per pound. 
  2. Fresh Produce. Year-round good weather means year-round fresh produce. There is an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables available. When purchased at a Farmer's Market or the Wholesale Produce Market in Panama City, you'll be amazed at how cheap the produce is. Here are some examples of things you can buy for $1: a dozen bananas, 2 pineapples, 20 limes, lettuce, 2 coconuts, a watermelon, 5 small mangoes, 4 ripe tomatoes, and more! You can literally stuff your refrigerator each week for less than $20. Fresh produce at a fraction of the price... one more reason to love Panama.
  3. Maid Service. A typical maid costs $20 per day. My maid  not only does surface cleaning--such as mopping and dusting--but she also launders my clothes, washes, the windows, cooks lunch, and then cleans all of the dishes. Because domestic help is so inexpensive, many people have a maid several times a week. It's amazing how much more you can enjoy life when you're not overwhelmed with the tedium of cleaning.
  4. Health Insurance. This is a touchy subject right now, so be prepared to smile. You can get full coverage for a fraction of the cost that you're currently paying. For example, if you're 55-59 years old, you can get full coverage for $140 per month. 
  5. Homeowner Association Fees. Panama doesn't just have cheaper real estate and property taxes, but it also has cheaper HOA fees. In fact, the rising cost of HOA fees around the world is making Panama even more attractive. Beachfront properties in Miami can be as much as $3,000 per month, while similar fees in Southern California can cost $500-$1000 per month.  Beachfront HOA dues in Panama can be as little as $150 per month for a beachfront condo in Coronado. This price includes water, trash, gas, security, common area maintenance, and a slew of amenities such as swimming pools, a gym, a sauna, a party room, a game room, a rooftop kitchen area, and more.
  6. Labor. Unskilled labor in Panama is cheap. It doesn't matter if you want your house painted, a full-time live-in gardener, or ceiling fans installed, you'll pay a fraction of what you're used to. For example, when I had two guys install ceiling fans, it took them 10 hours and they charged $100. A full-time caretaker will cost about $500 (if you provide lodging), 
  7. Property Taxes. The Panama property tax exemption is one of the things that has made Panama so attractive to expats. Property tax exemptions can be up to 20 years. Most people save $10,000 - $20,000 per year on this savings alone. But even after property tax kicks into effect, it is much lower than in other Western countries. )Property tax is based on a sliding scale. Request my book "Panama Uncorked" to get the whole scoop on property tax.)
  8. Dog Grooming. If you have pets, you'll love the cheap grooming services in Panama. Getting your dog bathed, trimmed and toenails clipped costs a mere $16. And if you give them $1-$2 for a tip, they are thrilled.
  9. Medical Procedures. Many medical procedures are just a fraction of the cost of what you would pay at home, often up to 70% cheaper. There are several reasons for this, including lower wages and lower malpractice insurance. Medical procedures--from dental implants to heart surgery--are so much lower that a new industry of medical tourism has erupted. If you want to learn more, click here to read a recent article about medical tourism. 
  10. Taxis. Taxis in Panama are not metered, so be prepared to negotiate. The key to cheap taxi service is to ask someone who knows. A trip from the Coronado Beach to the grocery store? Just $2. A trip from Tocumen Airport to downtown Panama City? After tolls and tip, just $30.
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Restaurant Review - La Teca in Coronado, Panama

12/4/2013

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This is an upscale restaurant that specializes in food from the Catalan region of Spain. You don’t have to struggle through a Spanish menu, though, as they have an English menu and English-speaking wait staff for Gringos. 

La Teca’s menu includes traditional Spanish tapas items, paella, tuna tartar (one of my favorite things on the menu), and squid ink pasta, a Catalan delicacy that will turn your mouth black.

Your meal starts with hot-out-of-the-oven bread. This yeasty bread is shaped like a cinnamon roll and topped with Parmesan cheese. It's so good it's worth a second round, even though you have to pay for the second one and you know you shouldn't fill up on bread.

I like ordering a variety of tapas to share. The tapas are truly little plates, and it takes quite a few to fill you up. The only downside is that, unlike a tapas restaurant in Spain, these tapas are on the pricey side. The price of a light tapas meal for two that included one glass of house wine and one Diet Coke was $71. 

It's a fun place to go if you want to linger. On weekends, you'll see people in all hours of the day from the moment it opens until closing time. 


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Panama City’s Top 12 Things to Do

12/2/2013

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PictureGamboa Rainforest Resort in Panama
Panama City is more than just a big bustling city, it’s a playground of hidden treasures. Some people who come to Panama bypass Panama City altogether because they think it’s just another big city. 

Before heading to the beach, take time to experience Panama’s Top 12 treasures. You'll experience local flavor at the fish market and produce market and exotic elegance at the Westin or Gamboa resorts.
  1. Panama Canal. You can’t come to Panama without seeing the canal that helped shaped Panama into what it is today. Although the Panama Canal can seem like a tourist trap if you are crushed by other tourists, try to go on a weekday morning or late in the afternoon when crowds are lighter. The canal is more fascinating if you can take your time. Take the whole tour for $10. This includes a movie, a map, and a tour through the gift shop. There is also a restaurant at the Miraflores Locks where you can also eat a buffet lunch and watch the ships as you linger over lunch. 
  2. Westin Playa Bonita. This is the only resort of its kind in Panama City. Situated just 15 minutes from the heart of Panama City, Playa Bonita is a private beachfront village. Have lunch at one of the many restaurants, enjoy a drink or meal poolside, take a walk on the beach, or just lounge with a cocktail as you watch over 50 ships line up to get through the Panama Canal. Playa Bonita is a private gated community but I’d love for you to be my guest. Just email me and we can set a beach play date. You can enjoy the amenities of Playa Bonita and take a tour of Casa Bonita, condo where I live full time. It’s the only true resort living in Panama City.
  3. Cinta Costera. The Cinta Costera is Panama City's waterfront area, with wide walking trails, biking trails, workout stations, playgrounds, tennis courts, and more. On a weekend morning, it's a place to see and be seen while you're walking your dog, roller blading, riding your bike, playing tennis, or just out for a leisurely stroll. 
  4. Fish Market. The fish market is an easy stroll down the Cinta Costera. It is open daily and offers a wide selection of freshly caught fish, from Corvina to Octopus to Prawns. Aside from buying fish for your evening meal, you can get dozens of different types of fresh ceviche. The ceviche is served in big Styrofoam cups and comes with crackers. For $2-$3, you can sit outside the fish market and have a light meal. If you are staying in town and want to cook, fresh sushi grade Ahi tuna is only $2.50 per pound.
  5. Casco Viejo. If you are walking down the Cinta Costera and hit the fish market, it's only a few more minutes to Casco Viejo where you'll find more bars, restaurants and shops than you'll know what to do with. This is the old town and is definitely a must-see tourist destination. You'll see tourists mixing with artists stirred in with locals of all flavors. This is a great place to buy gifts from local artisans. You can get everything from handheld fans to Panama hats to handcrafted jewelry. Be sure to try a scoop of ice cream from Granclement or a snow cone from a street vendor. (If you like coconut, it’s the most amazing coconut snow cone you’ve ever tasted!)
  6. Wholesale Produce Market. This is one of the hidden treasures of Panama City. It’s more the size of a shopping mall than a farmer’s market. You pay a quarter to drive in and then go to different areas of the market for different items. There is a pineapple area, a melon area, a citrus area, a banana area, and so on. This is where restaurants go to shop, so there are mountains of each type of produce at dirt cheap prices. For example, for $1 you can get any of the following: 12 bananas, 2 pineapples, 2 huge bunches of basil, a watermelon, 2 coconuts, 20 limes, and more. This is a working produce market so wear clothes that can be easily washed. When it rains, you might get muddy, and when it’s hot, you’ll definitely smell the ripe (or rotting) produce, but the abundance of cheap just-picked produce makes the experience worthwhile. Each week I stuff my SUV with ultra-fresh produce for under $20.
  7. Hard Rock Hotel. No trip to Panama City would be complete without a trip to the Hard Rock Hotel. It’s centrally located on Avenida Balboa right next to MultiCentro Mall. Go to the second floor and order a Ciao Lobster Roll sandwich and pair it with a lychee martini. This is a place to go to see and be seen so be sure to wear something nice.
  8. Gamboa Rainforest. A mere 30 minutes from the heart of Panama City is the Gamboa Rainforest. The rainforest offers a whole spectrum of things to do, and you could literally spend days in this area. The flora and fauna of the rainforest are unique to this area, and if you go early in the morning, you’ll see monkeys and exotic birds. Plus, it’s typically much cooler in the rainforest than it is in the city. At the Gamboa Rainforest Resort, check out the tour desk. You can take a Gatun Lake expedition by boat, an aerial tram tour, a bird watching tour, a night safari, or even take you kayaking through the Panama Canal.
  9. Sunday Brunch at the Gamboa Rainforest Resort.  This is the best Sunday brunch in Panama. For $37, you can enjoy unlimited brunch with champagne or wine. The offerings include handmade sushi, fresh sashimi, sautéed local lobster, a meat carving station, cold salads, a dozen hot entrees, and more individual dessert choices than you can possibly try. Everything is beautifully presented on small dishes and served with five-star elegance. Enjoy your brunch with live music and a view of Gatun Lake. Be sure to make reservations, though, as it fills up quickly. Call 507-314-5000 and ask for the Corotu Restaurant.
  10. Trump Tower. Trump Tower is a hotel, a residential tower, a small shopping mall, and home to nine restaurants, bars and cafes. Not only is it famous for bearing the Trump name, but it’s also the tallest building in Latin America. Shaped like a sail, Trump Tower is a glamorous icon of the Panama City skyline. Stroll the shops at the lobby level, and then have lunch at one of two outdoor restaurants on the water. If you want something fancier, there are several elegant restaurants upstairs. (If you’re looking for real estate in the city, look here first, but then let me take you next door to the Grand Tower, a beautiful new building with a comparable view, incredible amenities, and a lesser price tag!)
  11. Amador Causeway. The Causeway not only connects three islands, but it’s also the Pacific Ocean entrance to the Panama Canal. Drive next to ships as they enter and exit the canal as you take the beautiful drive down the Causeway. It’s about three kilometers long and extends into the Pacific Ocean. Enjoy the beautiful views of the ocean, the ships as they enter the canal, the Panama City skyline, and the yachts in the harbor as you walk or bike on the trail or eat at one of the many local restaurants. Be sure to linger over coffee or ice cream and enjoy the view.
  12. Whale Watching. A day trip on a boat during whale migration season will bring a smile to your face. You’ll enjoy the sparkling water, see whales playing in the water, and you can even swim with the dolphins. You pay based on the number of people who go, so the more people the less expensive it is. Be prepared to pay $100-$200 per person and to bring your own lunch and drinks. Even though it’s a pricey activity, it’s a once in a lifetime adventure you won’t want to miss.

As you can see, there’s enough to do to keep you busy for a week or more while you’re a tourist. If you want more suggestions, please contact me. I’d love to share more of my city with you.  




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    Melissa Darnay is a marketer, a serial entrepreneur, and a relocation concierge in Panama. Learn more... 

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