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Hammock Time in Panama

5/24/2014

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Before I visited Panama for the first time, I imagined it would be full of locals who spent every afternoon enjoying a siesta in their hammock. The reality of Panama is much different. 

Panama City is as cosmopolitan as any big city around the world, and the Panamanians put in 45-hour workweeks. They work eight or more hours each weekday and even work a half-day every Saturday. That schedule doesn't allow the average Panamanian much hammock time.

After a year and a half in Panama, I realized I was working too hard and not spending enough time relaxing. The answer I knew was simple--I had to buy a hammock. After all, the great weather was why I moved to Panama. 

Finding the perfect hammock was easy, but hanging it on my balcony was more of a challenge. I only have one regular wall because most of my balcony "wall" is made of glass to take advantage of my spectacular view.

It took us a while to figure out how to hang a hammock on our balcony, but with help from a clever handyman, we hung one side of the hammock to the wall and the other side to the ceiling. I had special hammock hooks couriered down from the US, but it turned out I didn't need them. The handyman installed rounded re-bar hooks into the cement wall and ceiling and then cemented them in. My hammock is now sturdy enough--and big enough--to hold my entire family--myself, my sweetheart, and my two furr-babies. 

I'd had a really nice padded hammock from Brookstone that I'd used in the US on the few days a year it was temperate enough for me to be outdoors in Dallas, so I was no stranger to the joys of hammock time. As lovely as that padded hammock was, my Panama hammock is exponentially more comfortable. Not only does the thick cotton fabric stretch to hold my body in a comfortable shape, but the hammock actually swings. One or two pushes will keep me going for several minutes. When I'm swinging in my hammock, I instantly fall into the full-level of relaxation and contentment reserved for just-fed babies who are swinging in their mothers' arms.

One of my favorite things to do is to swing in my hammock during a heavy rainstorm. Unlike Dallas where the crazy thermals mean that it rains sideways--making it impossible to sit on a balcony without getting wet--Panama rain comes straight down. This means I can be just inches from the edge of my balcony and not get wet. 

There is something intensely relaxing about being just inches from a heavy, warm rain. I love the smell of the ozone when it rains, and I love watching the lightning and listening to the thunder. It typically rains for about 20 to 60 minutes each day during rainy season (May through December), and then the sun re-emerges. 

In my life, the rain is cause for a mini-vacation in my hammock. If I'm in my apartment when the rain starts, I drop what I'm doing and run to my hammock to enjoy a few minutes of relaxation.

I'll be honest. I have a good life. And it got even better now that I added hammock time to my daily routine.

If you're thinking of giving Panama a try, be sure to put your feet up and enjoy some hammock time. The great climate means you can enjoy your hammock every single day of the year. I'd love to stay and chat, but that handsome man you see in the hammock wants me to join him for some hammock time.

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9 Tips to a Happy Life in Panama

5/23/2014

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People are Panama-curious. There's a lot of information you can glean from the Internet, but much of the online info is out of date. It's not uncommon to get contradictory information as things in Panama changes and websites aren't updated. Rather than being confused, book a visit and see for yourself.

Once you come to Panama, chances are pretty good that you will fall madly in love with this stunningly beautiful land. Here are 10 tips to making sure Panama is right for you. 

  1. Keep an Open Mind. Panama may seem like a mini-me America, but it's still Latin America. Things are different here. Instead of getting upset about what's different, understand that this is their country. With that comes a different set of customs, traditions and way of life.
  2. Learn to Laugh. There are some things that are so ridiculous that you just have to laugh. For example, my fiance went to the biggest bank in Panama to make 5 separate deposits. After processing three deposits, the bank teller told Kleriston that he was going to lunch, and that Kleriston would need to finish the deposits with another teller. WTH??? Being Latin himself, my sweetheart pushed back and the teller reluctantly finished the deposits himself. I would have dutifully gone to a different teller. Crazy, but true. And instead of getting upset, we now get to laugh about it every single time we tell this outrageous story.
  3. Explore Panama. There are so many micro-climates here that you can have a variety of different experiences without ever leaving the country. Try things you never thought you'd try before. Go kayaking in the ocean, zip lining in the jungle canopy, hiking to a waterfall, bicycling on Amador, coffee tasting in Boquete, whale watching in the Pacific, or try taking a culinary class from the variety of chefs who call Panama home. There are so many different new things you can experience with just one passport stamp.
  4. Accept the Slower Pace. Everything is slower here. Service is rarely quick. Fast food isn't served fast. People even walk slower. If you bring your Western impatience, you'll become frustrated very quickly. 
  5. Learn Spanish. You don't need to become fluent (unless you want to), but learning some key phrases will help you ask for directions, buy things you want at the grocery store, and hire domestic help.
  6. Buy a Hammock. My hammock is one of the things I love best about Panama. The weather here is good year-round, which makes lolling in the hammock a daily activity. It's an inexpensive way to have a daily dose of good old fashioned relaxation. Forget the hammocks made of rope. Hammocks are sold all over Panama, so buy one that's made of a thick cotton fabric, and you'll see what real comfort feels like. 
  7. Plug Yourself in with Other Expats. There are three main expat regions in Panama--Panama City, the Coronado Beach Area, and Boquete. If you live in one of these areas, it's easy to connect with other expats who can help you get settled by answering questions about daily living in Panama.
  8. Take Time to Enjoy Panama. It didn't take me long to get so embroiled with my life in Panama, that I stopped doing many of the things I love to do. One day I woke up and gave myself a martini-like shake. Being busy is great, but walking on the beach, buying ultra-fresh fish at the fish market, and spending a lazy afternoon in my hammock are the reasons I moved here. Once I put those enjoyment items back into my daily routine, I realized why I'd moved to Panama in the first place.
  9. Try Something New. A new country is the perfect opportunity to try out a new hobby or two. If you've never been an avid golfer, now is the time to learn. If you've always wanted to get involved with a charity, there are a lot of hungry kids and stray dogs that could your help.


If you're on the fence about Panama, come spend a month. Perhaps Panama is for. With these 9 sure-fire tips, you're certain to have a happy life.

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Visiting the Colon Tax Free Zone

5/21/2014

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Visiting the Colon Tax Free Zone in Panama has been on my to-do list since I arrived in Panama. I'm not sure why it took me so long to go, but two years later I finally decided it was time to check it out.

Colon is a mere hour from Panama City along brand new toll roads. The drive reminded me of the coastal roads in southern California. You can't see the ocean, but you are surrounded by green trees as you gently weave through hilly terrain as you go from the Pacific Ocean side of Panama to the Caribbean side.

To get into the Zona Libra you typically you typically need to get your passport stamped at a nearby custom's office. We hired a "tour guide" at the entrance to sit in the car with us while he drove us through the gates. His fee was $20 for about 3 minutes. (Not a bad gig... I wish I had thought of it.) 

Although I heard that tourists come in by foot and walk from store to store, Zona Libre is the size of Disneyland and I didn't feel like walking. It was worth the $20 to have our car inside the zone and not have to stamp our passports. 

The inside of the zone is part outdoor mall and part warehouse dock. Many of the stores have splashy window displays showing their shoes, handbags, designer clothes and house ware items. International brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, La Perla and Westinghouse were juxtaposed with banks, logistics companies, and tire stores.

Big trucks jammed the small streets and made speed impossible. The lack of street signs meant we made several wrong turns onto one-way streets. This is definitely an insider's club where you're supposed to know your way around.

After driving around to get the lay of the land, we stopped at a jewelry store that looked intriguing... and had a front-row parking spot. We were buzzed in by a very handsome young man who spoke a decent amount of English. It turns out this particular store was owned by two brothers from Venezuela who sell silver jewelry from Italy. I was offered a beverage, and I felt just like I would if I were at an exclusive boutique on Rodeo Drive. 

For you shopaholics out there, playing in a wholesale boutique is a whole different level of fun. We were taken upstairs to vault-like room lined with thousands of drawers. Our guide spent 30 minutes opening drawer after drawer of silver jewelry. Instead of a few items per drawer, there were literally hundreds of items in each drawer. I'd hit utopia. Hundreds of items per drawer times thousands of drawers. I wondered how long I could stay before they kicked me out. I was alone with three handsome men--my Brazilian fiance being one of them--and thousands of pieces of jewelry. If I could get takeout and a soft pillow, I might be tempted to stay for a week. 

I had gone into the jewelry store looking for something for myself, but the sparks in my brain ignited when the handsome Venezuelan jeweler told me the prices. Starting at just $1, these solid silver baubles could be readily sold in the US for a huge markup. Plus, with a $500 minimum purchase, someone could launch themselves in the jewelry business for a very small investment.

Just before noon, my sweetheart started to get the look in his eyes that meant he needed food, and he pulled me reluctantly from the jewelry store. We found a central place to park and walked for a while, dodging street vendors, workers and other bargain hunters. 

One street vendor was selling freshly squeezed orange juice, shouting to passersby that his oranges were the sweetest you would ever taste. It smelled so good I almost stood in line, but my sweetheart was on a mission for real food. Kleriston tried a sample of meat a gyro vendor offered and was hooked. I'm not a fan of street food, so I sat at on a plastic stool while Kleriston's gyro was created. My plan was to hold out for a sit-down restaurant. I watched them make the gyro, and my mouth watered. Surprisingly, everyone at the cart used sanitary habits. They used a knife to cut the meat onto a tray and wore plastic food gloves. 

When the gyro was delivered stool-side, I took a bite, and it was both fresh and delicious. I had been watching one of the men at the cart make falafel balls, and I couldn't hold out any longer. I asked for an order and got 7 steaming falafel balls covered with a spicy yogurt dip. It was the best falafel I've ever tasted. Plus, it was actually quite pleasant sitting on a plastic stool in the shade, enjoying a slight breeze and chatting with the street vendors. But the best part was the lunch for two--including two canned sodas--cost just $11. 

I left the Zone without buying anything for myself, but I gained a wealth of knowledge. Plus, I had an interesting day and met a few new friends.

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Banking in Panama - A Comedy

5/20/2014

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There are many things I love about Panama. Banking is not one of them. Money is a serious business. In fact, it's the second largest industry in Panama--right after mining--and they take it as seriously as they do their Catholic rituals. In my humble opinion, though, banking is the single most frustrating thing about Panama. 

I've traveled all around the world, but I haven't been to Switzerland. I've heard their bankers are ultra-serious, but you would expect that from the Swiss. The disconnect about banking in Panama is that you expect the relaxed Panamanians to be a little more--well, relaxed--about banking. This isn't the case. They dot their i's and cross their t's in triplicate... and then they do it again for the sake of redundancy.

Banking in Panama reminds me of getting called to the principal's office. I have to be on my best behavior when I enter a bank and dress as if I'm a nun. Yes, there's a dress code for entering a Panama bank--no hats, no sunglasses, and long pants are required for men. Being a daily hat wearer, this means I always enter my bank with bad hair. Plus, to ensure security, men are wanded with a metal detector before they can walk into a bank, and women's handbags are given a cursory search. 

Almost every banking transaction is worthy of being retold at a cocktail party. Yes, the rules are that ridiculous to my Western brain. So imagine you have a cocktail in your hand while I regale you with my latest banking escapade. 

My fiance, Kleriston, went to the bank to pay bills for our clients, which meant he had five deposits to make. Each one was a simple one-check deposit and literally took just 20 seconds or so to process. But after the third deposit, the teller said to him, “I’m going to lunch. You have to go to a different teller to finish these deposits.” What? You want a client to go get into a different line so you can head to lunch one minute early? Is this a version of Candid Camera that will be posted on YouTube?

Now had it been me, I would have not had the Spanish words to argue. Like the chastised child in the principal's office, I would have gone to a different line and finished the deposits with another teller, fuming with American indignation. But my sweetheart speaks Spanish and is Brazilian to boot, which means he pushes back. He argued with the teller until the teller realized he couldn't push this particular client out of his line, and he finally deposited the remaining checks. 

When Kleriston got into the car and told me what had just happened, my laughter was heard in Costa Rica. One more crazy story in a cache of hilarious banking stories.

I was having such a hard time wrapping my brain around it that I told my Spanish teacher, and she said, “That’s not true. You’re making that up.” HA! I wish my imagination were that good. If it were, I could dream up the next Harry Potter series starring bad bank tellers in Panama and become a multi-billionaire. Until then, I'm stuck with the crazy truth.

The next time I was in the bank, I noticed that there was a sign over most of the windows that said, "Rapido Caja," which is the equivalent of the speedy checkout lane at the grocery store. Underneath it said, "Maximum 3 transactions" in Spanish. Aha... I was about to cut the bank a break, when I realized that all of the open tellers had the Rapido Caja sign up. There were no normal teller lines open.

Is there a reason that the bank only wants its clients to do three transactions per day? Is four transactions a red flag of financial hanky panky? This is something I ponder as I sip wine and swing in my hammock, watching the ships go through the Panama Canal. If banking is the most frustrating part of living in Panama, hammock time is definitely the best. Ah yes, this is why I moved to Panama. 

As frustrating as banking is, I know that the anal rules and regulations keep my money as safe as a newborn cub under the protective eyes of a ferocious lioness. Good weather and safe money... now that's a relaxing thought.


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What to Wear in Panama

5/14/2014

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PictureCasual 1-layer clothes keep you cool
When I lived in Dallas, I had a closet the size of a small ballroom. When my mother saw it for the first time she said, "You could hold a dance in here!" Like all good fashionistas, I stuffed my closet with everything from business suits to ball gowns for every season and reason. 

When I moved to Panama, I could have opened my own boutique with all of the clothes I was selling, giving away or storing. I ended up bringing only two suitcases of clothes with me to Panama, which was a tiny dent in my once expansive wardrobe. But let's face it, I didn't need any of my business suits, sweaters or shawls in this tropical climate.

How do I dress in Panama? I wear workout clothes to the gym, bathing suits to the beach, halter tops and tennis skirts in my apartment, sundresses when I'm out in the city, and cocktail dresses whenever I go out. Aside from a few lightweight sweaters that I wear in the evening or in an over-air conditioned restaurant, everything is one layer. My footwear consists almost exclusively of cute flip flops and strappy sandals. 

The best thing I did for my wardrobe is to keep most of it wash-and-wear. Sure, some of my cocktail dresses need to go to the dry cleaner, but the vast majority of my wardrobe can be washed by my maid. 

When planning your trip to Panama, choose lightweight fabrics that breathe, such as cotton or linen. Synthetic fabrics may be sheer, but they won't breathe and you'll be uncomfortably hot if you're visiting Panama City or the beach area. Stick to short sleeve or sleeveless tops, flowy skirts or cropped pants. You will probably want to bring at least one sun hat, as Panama is on the equator and the sun can be intense during the day. 

Men, you will want to bring cotton tee shirts or polo shirts, a linen shirt or two, shorts, and at least one pair of long slacks. There are many places in the city--such as banks and restaurants--that will not allow men to enter if they are wearing shorts. Panama City can be very formal, so if you want to deck out in suit and tie, you'll feel right at home in many parts of the city. The choice is yours.

When packing for your trip to Panama, you'll need about half of what you think you do. Bring comfortable clothes that you love, and come enjoy the tropical warmth of Panama.


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Discovering a New Food in Panama - Burrata Cheese

5/12/2014

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I love real Italian food. I've been to Italy nine times, and I could eat Italian food every day for the rest of my life. After all, Italians know the best food comes from the freshest ingredients.  

We went to a small Italian restaurant called Casa Tua for lunch on Saturday. It's in the San Francisco neighborhood of Panama City. 

The waiter told us about a cheese called burrata, which he said was similar to a fresh mozzarella di bufala. When it arrived, it was about the size of a softball, shaped like a small jewelry pouch, and looked just like its mozzarella cousin. When I sliced it, though, it had a slightly wet creamy interior. It was paired with tomatoes marinated in aged balsamic vinegar and pieces of arugula. When I took a bite, the heavens opened and a host of angels started singing the Hallelujah chorus. How could it be that I--a foodie extraordinaire--had never tasted this bit of heaven before? The thick almost-liquid center made me think of a molten lava cake made of cold cheese. 

We savored every bite of the burrata. My sweetheart put it on his Italian bread, but I ate it as-is, enjoying the buttery flavor of the burrata's creamy center. Everything about it was perfect. The waiter told us an Italian artisan made this Southern-Italy cheese for them. It has a mozzarella exterior to hold it together, and the interior is made of cream and leftover mozzarella curd. It needs to be eaten within 24 hours of being made and is considered past its prime after a mere 48 hours.

The restaurant price was $18 for the burrata appetizer, but if we wanted to take it home, it was only $16 without the tomatoes & arugula. Now let me be honest. I'm not sure I would have paid $18 for a ball of cheese had I seen it on the menu, so I'm forever grateful that I didn't know the price ahead of time. It was so amazing that we bought another burrata ball to take home. Was it worth $34 for two balls of burrata? You betcha. Every last penny. In fact, even though I ate the last of it for breakfast this morning, I'm still craving more. 

After doing some research about this amazing culinary creation called burrata, I've come to realize that it's a hot food trend all over the world. I understand why people go nuts over it, but I doubt it's a fad. Once you taste this cheese, you'll be asking for it by name and searching for it in every gourmet food store you know.
Until you can find it locally, go to Casa Tua in Panama City and give it a try. Your taste buds will thank you.



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Making New Friends in Panama

5/9/2014

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When I moved from California to Texas, it took me over two years to start making deep friendships with other women. I yearned for the type of best gal pals that I'd had in California who I could drink wine with and gab all night. 

I've always been a social butterfly, so it surprised me that the girl-bonding process took so long. In hindsight, I made the move as a twenty-something woman who didn't have kids. If you've ever lived in a neighborhood of twenty-something women, you know that they are so overwhelmed by their own lives that they can't see beyond the next play date. 

During my second visit to Panama, I had 15 people at my "farewell-come-back-soon" party. In a few short weeks, I'd made enough friends to make me feel like I had a support system in Panama. Is it that people in Panama are friendlier than they are in Texas? Nope, not a chance. The real reason has more to do with the season of life when people make the move to Panama. 

Although there are all ages of expats living in Panama, many expats come here when they're more settled in life. For some people, this means that they're retired and looking for a cheaper place to live while. For others, a move to Panama means that they've got a revenue stream that can pay the bills and want a more appealing climate. Some have kids and others have grandkids, but they're all typically ready to put some quality time in their lives.

I had a client last week confide in me that she was worried about making friends. She asked me quite seriously, "If I throw a dinner party, will you come?"

I didn't mean to offend her, but I couldn't help laughing out loud. It was the kind of belly laugh that made tears stream down my face. She blinked at me like an owl. What was so darned funny? 
 
Here is a Panama-ism that was very hard to explain to my new friend. Within a few weeks of her move, she'll have more friends than she wants. In fact, she will probably stop taking applications for friendship. She'll go to so many cocktail parties, cookouts and dinner parties that she'll long for a free night to stay home with cucumbers on her eyelids. I know she didn't believe me when I told her this, but trust me, it will happen. 

Making friends in Panama is much easier than it is at home. If you're an inquiring mind, you'll scratch your head and wonder why.  After a lot of analysis, here are my five reasons on why it's easier to make friends in Panama.

  1. People who move to Panama tend to have an adventurous spirit, which means the selection process of being around other people you have something in common with happens naturally.
  2. If you speak English, you immediately have something in common.
  3. Expats in Panama tend to have more free time for socializing.
  4. The "it's five o'clock somewhere" mentality is alive and well among expats.
  5. It's hard to be grumpy when you wake up to a beautiful jungle or ocean view every day, and happy people make friends easily.

If you're worried about making friends in Panama, don't be. You have a much better chance of being hit by a crazy bus than going friendless in Panama.

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Relaxing Things to Do at Playa Bonita in Panama

5/8/2014

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Got stress? Come unwind in Panama. There are so many things to do that you'll soon forget what stress is.

A few weeks ago, a couple arrived from the US. They were renting a beautiful condo at Playa Bonita, the resort where I live. When they arrived, the husband had stress lines etched into his face. I joked with him and told him that his "stress face" would be gone in 24 hours. When I saw him a few days later, it was like meeting a totally different person. He was happy and relaxed, and the stress had melted away like an ice cube in the warm Panama sun.

If you need to catch up on your relaxation, there is no better place than Panama. There are so many things to do that you can be as active--or inactive--as you want to be. Panama is full of micro climates. The laid back Caribbean side is very different from the Pacific Coast Beach region, and the Panama City region is very different from the slower-paced mountain towns. 

Because the list would be endless if I included the entire country, I am just listing the ways you can relax when you rent a condo at the spectacular Casa Bonita, the residential condo tower inside of Playa Bonita. Of course, you can also stay at the Westin Playa Bonita, but if there is availability, you'll love the extra amenities that come with condo life.

Here is a list of some of the things you can do at while staying at Playa Bonita in Panama.

  • Lay by the pool and catch some sea-Zzz's
  • Walk on the beach and let the warm sand squish through your toes. (Don't worry if it ruins your pedi... there is a spa and salon right here!) 
  • Catch up on your hammock time ...you may not even realize you're hammock-time deficient until you've spent a few hours lolling in the breeze with a good book and a cold beverage
  • Play outdoor chess with a large chess set
  • Play golf at one of the many public golf courses ... or just practice your swing at a beachfront driving range
  • Recapture your youthful exuberance with indoor or outdoor ping pong
  • Sharpen your pool cue and play billiards
  • Shop 'til you drop at one of the many nearby indoor malls
  • Bicycle down the Cinta Costera or along the Amador Causeway
  • Play water volleyball or beach volleyball
  • Mountain bike up and down the nearby hills
  • Play tennis
  • Hike through the rain forest
  • Paddle a kayak in the Bay of Panama


If reading this list makes you yearn for some quality relaxation time, stop dreaming and start living the dream. Book your ticket and come discover how relaxed you'll be in Panama.

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Labor Day in Panama

5/1/2014

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You know what they say about the best laid plans of rodents and gringos? In Panama it’s true, especially if you don't keep a calendar of Panama holidays taped to your forehead.

Panama has a lot of holidays, which is one of the things I like about this country. They find dozens of reasons to celebrate throughout the year and capitalize on every opportunity with parades, bands, food booths, and fireworks, 

May 1 is the official start of "low season" in Panama. Many of the tourists have left, and those of us who work with North American visitors take our first relaxing breath in four months.  Don't get me wrong, I love the frenetic energy of high season, but my sweetheart and I have had two days off together in the past four months and we were ready for a day of relaxation. We've been referring to today as our own personal fiesta day for the past week, thinking about all of the fun things we would do today.

Since it's just one day, our perfect day was outlined by sleeping in, paddle boarding in the ocean, having a leisurely lunch dripping with wine and sushi, and then going to the mall to buy my fiance's wedding ring, something he's wanted to do for months now but it's too important to rush. Oh, and hitting the bank sometime between squishing sand between our toes and popping the cork on the wine.

If you've been following my blog, you know two things. You know that I went an entire four months without blogging during high season in Panama (which should give you an idea of how crazy-busy it is for a real estate maven in Panama), and you know that I'm engaged to a Brazilian man who is learning English. Being in a multi-lingual relationship has it's challenges, but it becomes easier every day as his English gets better and my Spanglish gets more Spanish.

I started referring to May 1 as our own personal fiesta day, so when he talked about today as a "fiesta day," I just assumed it was our own private fiesta. Even though I've blogged about the Panama holiday schedule in the past, it never occurred to me that May 1 was important. After all election day--a huge national holiday in Panama--is only three days away. He knew that today was a holiday and told me many times, but of course we were having a Whose on First conversation, and I didn't get it. 

In case you're curious, May 1 is Labor Day in Panama. It's an important holiday in most countries, so of course banks and restaurants and shops will be closed today. Our own personal fiesta day happened to coincide with a national fiesta day, which means we'll shift our lunch out to a lunch in, and postpone the ring shopping until manana. Heck, we've waited this long, what's one more day.


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    Melissa Darnay is a marketer, a serial entrepreneur, and a relocation concierge in Panama. Learn more... 

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